{"id":256034,"date":"2023-08-02T09:43:57","date_gmt":"2023-08-02T13:43:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/?p=256034"},"modified":"2023-12-31T23:09:00","modified_gmt":"2023-12-31T23:09:00","slug":"amateurs-got-to-denalis-peak-first-but-no-one-believed-them","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/2023\/08\/02\/amateurs-got-to-denalis-peak-first-but-no-one-believed-them\/","title":{"rendered":"Amateurs got to Denali&#8217;s peak first, but no one believed them"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"525\" height=\"405\" data-attachment-id=\"257738\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/2023\/08\/02\/amateurs-got-to-denalis-peak-first-but-no-one-believed-them\/image-134-2\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/image-134.png?fit=770%2C594&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"770,594\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"image-134\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/image-134.png?fit=525%2C405&amp;ssl=1\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/image-134.png?resize=525%2C405&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-257738\" style=\"width:900px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/image-134.png?w=770&amp;ssl=1 770w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/image-134.png?resize=300%2C231&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/image-134.png?resize=768%2C592&amp;ssl=1 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 767px) 89vw, (max-width: 1000px) 54vw, (max-width: 1071px) 543px, 580px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">From the University of Alaska, via <a href=\"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/147\">Kottke.org<\/a>: &#8220;An unexpected find in a University of Alaska Fairbanks archive has revealed more information about the oft-debated April 1910 Sourdough Expedition climb of Denali, North America\u2019s highest mountain. Photographs found by UAF Geophysical Institute professor Matthew Sturm in the university\u2019s Rasmuson Library archives in October show the climbing party at about 16,500 feet \u2014 far higher on the <a href=\"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/146\">20,310-foot mountain than previously seen<\/a>. The New York Times on June 5, 1910, carried three full pages about the climb under the headline \u201cFirst account of conquering Mount McKinley\u201d and included a photograph made at about 11,000 feet. Within weeks of the Times story, however, the climb was largely discredited as a hoax and remained so until 1918 when Hudson Stuck published his book on his successful 1913 ascent of the south \u2014 and higher \u2014 summit.&#8221; (<a href=\"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/148\">More here<\/a>)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Mozart&#8217;s musical creations were inspired in part by his pet starling<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image is-resized\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/interlude-cdn-blob-prod.azureedge.net\/interlude-blob-storage-prod\/2017\/10\/Mozart-Starling-2.jpg?w=525&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"Mozart's pet Starling \" style=\"width:900px\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">From Emily Hogstad for Interlude magazine: &#8220;On 27 May 1784, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart bought a pet starling bird at a Viennese pet shop. Normally historians and musicologists don\u2019t pay much attention to composers\u2019 pets, but this starling wasn\u2019t your average pet. Because when Mozart recorded the thirty-four kreutzer expense in his diary, he also transcribed a melody purportedly sung by his new bird. He included two versions: one that the bird sang,<a href=\"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/14a\"> and another that was \u201ccleaned up\u201d for insertion<\/a> into a piece of concert music. This pet store purchase actually raises some serious musicological questions. Mozart wrote on the score that he completed the work April 12, and he wrote in his expense diary that he bought the concerto-singing bird on May 27. The earliest public performance of the concerto (that we know of, anyway) was by a Mozart student on June 13. So what came first: the concerto or the birdsong?&#8221;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em><strong>Note<\/strong>: This is a version of my personal newsletter, which I send out via Ghost, the open-source publishing platform. You can&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/newsletter.mathewingram.com\/\">see other issues&nbsp;and sign up here<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--more-->\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Was the rolled-up painting found in a dog walker\u2019s closet worth millions?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image is-resized\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2023\/07\/18\/multimedia\/00dogwalker-bvtz\/00dogwalker-bvtz-superJumbo.jpg?w=525&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" style=\"width:900px\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">From John Leland at the New York Times: &#8220;In March of 2022, Mark Herman, a dog walker and recreational drug enthusiast in Upper Manhattan, came into possession of a dog, a painting and a story. The dog was Phillipe, a 17-year-old toy poodle that belonged to Mr. Herman\u2019s only client, an 87-year-old retired law professor and former defense lawyer named Isidore Silver. <a href=\"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/149\">The painting, which belonged to Mr. Silver<\/a>, may be a lost work by the artist Chuck Close, whose canvases once sold for as much as $4.8 million. Or it may not. Therein lies the story. On a recent afternoon in his cluttered apartment, Mr. Herman offered a broken chair and began a circuitous account of friendship, loss and a commercial art market not meant for people like him.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The decathlete-turned-grifter who conned L.A.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image is-resized\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.rollingstone.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/IMG_3128x-1.jpg?w=525&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" style=\"width:900px\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">From Andrea Marks for Rolling Stone: &#8220;In 2022, a judge found that between 2010 and 2020, David Bunevacz had scammed money from people in nearly every area of his life \u2014 from business partners to his close friends in Los Angeles to parents of the girls who rode horses with his youngest daughter. In the end, the court found, he took at least $35 million from more than <a href=\"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/145\">100 people. Law enforcement officers who investigated<\/a> Bunevacz said they\u2019d found evidence that he\u2019d barely conducted any legitimate business at all during that time frame. Attorney Jim Moriarty, who represented one victim in a legal fight against Bunevacz, calls him \u201cthe single most amoral person\u201d he\u2019s ever encountered. Bunevacz\u2019 dentist \u2014 whom he took for $800,000 \u2014 called Bunevacz \u201csociopathic.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Henrietta Lacks\u2019 family celebrates historic settlement over stolen cells<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image is-resized\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thebaltimorebanner.com\/resizer\/KW44QCi2QNM-4AbKenwmMIdljSI%3D\/1440x0\/filters%3Aformat%28jpg%29%3Aquality%2870%29\/cloudfront-us-east-1.images.arcpublishing.com\/baltimorebanner\/FO2NHLAGD5EPDML6HZPQ37ZXFY.jpg?w=525&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" style=\"width:900px\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">From Jessica Calefati for the Baltimore Banner: &#8220;Henrietta Lacks\u2019 living relatives gathered Tuesday morning in a sunny Baltimore waterfront park to herald the settlement they reached with a multibillion-dollar biotechnology company that for years has profited off its free use of regenerative cells taken from her decades ago without her consent. News of the agreement <a href=\"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/144\">between the Lacks family and Massachusetts-based<\/a> Thermo Fisher Scientific came after two years of litigation in federal court on what would have been the Turner Station wife and mother\u2019s 103rd birthday. Lacks\u2019 \u201cHeLa cells\u201d were the first in the world capable of replicating outside the body, and have been used to develop the polio and COVID-19 vaccines and the world\u2019s most common fertility treatment.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">That feeling when you get rescued by a three-masted sailing ship from the 1700s<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image is-resized\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sailingscuttlebutt.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/2023-05-09_16-02-25.jpg?w=525&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" style=\"width:900px\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">From Scuttlebutt Sailing News: &#8220;At 47-meters, the G\u00f6theborg of Sweden is the largest ocean-going wooden sailing ship in the world. Launched in 2005, it was based on an 18th-century merchant ship and built using the tools, methods, and materials of that time. While the ship is typically utilized for tours or European expeditions, it recently was also the closest vessel to <a href=\"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/143\">a sailboat that had made a distress call after losing<\/a> its rudder. Here\u2019s the report from the sailors that made the call: &#8220;We left Cherbourg and set sail for the tip of Brittany, and then our rudder broke. The arrival of the G\u00f6theborg on the scene was rapid and surprising, as we did not expect to see a merchant ship from the East India Company of the XVIII century. This moment was very strange, and we wondered if we were dreaming. Where were we? What time period was it?&#8221;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Some experts believe two scientists have found a room-temperature superconductor<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Via Andrew Cote <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/Andercot\/status\/1686215574177841152\">on Twitter<\/a>: &#8220;Simulations published on Arxiv support LK-99 as the holy grail of modern material science and applied physics.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"525\" height=\"430\" data-attachment-id=\"257740\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/2023\/08\/02\/amateurs-got-to-denalis-peak-first-but-no-one-believed-them\/image-135-2\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/image-135.png?fit=666%2C546&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"666,546\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"image-135\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/image-135.png?fit=525%2C430&amp;ssl=1\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/image-135.png?resize=525%2C430&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-257740\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/image-135.png?w=666&amp;ssl=1 666w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/image-135.png?resize=300%2C246&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" \/><\/figure>\n<div class=\"syndication-links\"><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>From the University of Alaska, via Kottke.org: &#8220;An unexpected find in a University of Alaska Fairbanks archive has revealed more information about the oft-debated April 1910 Sourdough Expedition climb of Denali, North America\u2019s highest mountain. Photographs found by UAF Geophysical Institute professor Matthew Sturm in the university\u2019s Rasmuson Library archives in October show the climbing &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/2023\/08\/02\/amateurs-got-to-denalis-peak-first-but-no-one-believed-them\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;Amateurs got to Denali&#8217;s peak first, but no one believed them&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crsspst_to_mathewingramblogwordpresscom":true,"mf2_syndication":[],"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[20],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-256034","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-newsletters"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/256034","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=256034"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/256034\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":257739,"href":"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/256034\/revisions\/257739"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=256034"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=256034"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mathewingram.com\/work\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=256034"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}